Pavlova quest part VI

Another Christmas, another pavlova... I really feel that I'm getting pretty close to nailing the perfect method for my mixer/oven now.  Armed with yet more info from Anneka Manning's how to make the perfect meringue, I hypothesised that I'm getting weeping mainly from OVER beating, plus a bit more cornflour should help to stabilise things even more. There was also an interesting note that the vinegar helps to acidify the mix, producing a more stable foam so it should be added at the beginning, especially for not so fresh eggs... I added it when I moved the mix to the stand mixer, when all the sugar was in, so I'm not sure whether it helped adding it earlier or not.

So here we go again:

• 190g egg whites, 310 g caster sugar
• whisk over double boiler until temperature of mix exceeds 60C (a little lower than my previous 70C, but apparently 60 is enough for pasteurisation)
• transfer to mixer and beat, slowly increasing speed to medium (speed 6) over the first five to six minutes. 
• I ended up beating for a total of 10 minutes, which was the same as previously BUT I didn't exceed speed 6. 
• I may have been imaginging it, but when finished the mixture had a finer texture than previously, which would align with the overbeating hypothesis. Mix was actually very stiff, with peaks not flopping over, which was a little stiffer than I would normally use.
• Note that even at the 10 minute mark, the bowl was still slightly warm to the touch, which goes against the standard advice to keep beating until the bowl is cool (room temp).
• Add cornflour, 1 tablespoon = 4 teaspoons (Australian measure!) or approximately 1 tspn per egg white (assume 1 large egg white ~40g). This is double what I would normally add for a pav this size.
• Add 1 tspn white wine vinegar (1 tspn per 4 egg whites) and a few drops of vanilla
• Preheated oven to 120C and turn down to 100C immediately on putting pav into oven
• Bake for 75 mins total (1:15)

I used the probe thermometer again, and it hit 80C after about 55 mins, and stayed there until the 1:15 mark. So I think I really do need the slightly higher oven temp of 100C (rather than 90C) to get the marshmallow part of the pav to cook fully.

And the result?

Pretty happy with this result. A bit of cracking as you can see but not too much marshmallow shrinkage. I probably could have cooked it 10-15 minutes less, but I was a bit concerned at the 55 minute mark that the outer shell didn't feel really dry. It was even a little soft and springy when I pushed on it. I probably could have turned down the oven for the last half hour just to dry out the shell without shrinking the marshmallow. 

The smallest bit of weeping in the middle of the ring. This pav may have cooked a little quicker becasue of its ring shape, rather than the usual circle, but I think the use of the probe thermometer takes the guesswork out as I now know that once the temp hits 80C, I just need another 20-30 minutes (max) to complete the drying out. Overall pretty good!!!

Pavlova quest part V

A long time between pavlova posts, but as I've changed techniques quite a lot in the last year or so, I thought I should make some notes!

The biggest change is to use the same initial technique as used in swiss buttercream to get the sugar dissolved in the egg white, that is, to use a double boiler to gently heat the egg whites and beat in the sugar by hand until the temperature reaches around 70 degrees Celsius. this is a sure fire way of making sure all the sugar is dissolved, meaning that the mix can be whisked at full speed. I havent done a comparison to really compare if this affects the final volume of the result, but it does give a beautifully stiff mix quite easily. Of course heating the mix has the advantage of basically pasteurising the eggs too! 

The rest of the recipe is unchanged, with the sugar to egg white ratio still being 1:1.65

I've had pretty good success with this technique, getting well risen pavlovas with none of the possible under cooking problems I had before (oozing syrup) but still some cracking.

Some sites prefer to use a long slow bake rather than an initial high heat, so that's what this trial is about. Previously I've always had the interior marshmallow part shrink, so there's a gap at the top of the pavlova, indicating that it was cooked for too long (water evaporates, shrinking the marshmallow). Temperatures higher than 100C are likely to make the pav crack, but the exterior doesn't brown. I'd really like to get a snowy white pav, so I'm going to try a long slow cook at 90C for around 2 hours.

I'm also going to use my probe thermometer - we're aiming for 80C in the middle. As per this site, I can always give it a quick hot blast again after the initial baking if I really want to brown the exterior.

So here's the latest trial notes:

• I used ~240g of egg whites to 390g of caster sugar
• After whisking egg whites and all of the sugar over a double boiler, beat on a stand mixer (max speed 8 after slowly increasing speed from 2 over the first 5 mins, for a total of 10 minutes (exactly)
• Add vinegar (1 tsp) and cornflour (1tsp/4 eggwhites) as normal
• Despite being a big pav (~6-7 extra large egg whites), it was about the same height as I would normally use, but a bit broader at ~23cm diameter
• Preheat oven to 90C. I've recently added an oven thermometer which confirms my oven temp is pretty much what it says on the dial, albeit with some hot spots
• Place probe thermometer in the pav. A bit tricky as the pav isnt really solid enough when raw to hold it above the sheet pan, but I sort of jerry rigged it
• Bake on 2nd lowest shelf (the pav is then in the middle of the oven) for approx 120 mins

And how did it turn out?

The pav as baked, with holes from probe thermometer

And voila!

Some notes:

• nice shape and pale colour, with a little cracking, but not too badly (better than previously)
• the marshmallow has shrunk away from the crisp crust quite a bit, indicating the pav was cooked for too long
• there is clear/yellowish syrup leaking from the base, which also suggests the pav may have been cooked too long (when the marshmallow shrinks, it squeezes out water)
• the temp never really got above 75-77C, and the egg whites should be above 80C to be fully cooked and stable. It reached this temp at about 60-70mins, and then never really got any higher. I suspect this might be because the foam is such a good insulator, its hard to make it rise without a higher oven temp

Next steps...

• try a marginally higher temp of 100C, but a shorter cook time to try to get the middle to come up to over 80C without resulting in later weeping